It is an extremely rich, warm, and voluptuous rose odor with a hint of honey. If not, they travel further down the gut and are covered in ambergris: a sticky, gelatinous material which dries to a lump with a resinous texture and then floats on the surface, ending up on beaches in places like South Africa, the East Indies, China, Japan, New Zealand even Dorset. Perfumers love animalic notes including civet for the raw sexiness they deliver to perfumes, and for that reason its incredibly popular and found in many of the worlds most notoriously seductive scents. But not any more: this seriously exotic, intense, rich fragrance note is at the top of the price scale for ingredients though even so, its still present in as much as 40% of quality perfume creations. A little bit rubbery, sometimes. Why black locust? And its used as incense and burned on altars, as a way of communicating with the heavens. The other type is leathery with woody smoky,undertones -not like birch tar, though, with its association of smokedsausages and campfires in October with wet wood. Like quite a few flowers, daisys used more for conjuring up an image in a perfume than for the actual smell. The davana herb (a member of the silver-leafed Artemisia family) is native to India, and once its steam-distilled has a sweet, tea-like smell, reminiscent of dried fruit. Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle. Our love of cinnamon dates back thousands of years: 2000 years ago the Egyptians were weaving it into perfumes (though it probably originates way before that, in China). WebCommon allergens fall into the five classes as detailed below: natural rubber, fragrances, preservatives, dyes, and metals. Do smell deep, though, and see if you can detect intrigue beneath the soft surface. Its also grown in southern France and in Cte d'Ivoire for the essential oil (and in in southern Turkey for its marmalade), Jo Malone London Oud and Bergamot Vivienne Westwood Libertine. Dior Hypnotic Poison Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Camellia Serge Lutens Chne. Apples have been a part of fragrance creation right back to the medieval era of Arab perfumery. Thats what legendary nose Jean Kerlo told our Perfume Society co-founder Jo Fairley to close her eyes and think of, when smelling vetiver from a perfumers vial. But in the hands of a gifted perfumer? (In aromatherapy, it dispels tension.) The very first leather scent, so far as records show, was worn by King George III: Creeds Royal English Leather. Fragonard Mimosa Theres a romantic (if slightly gory) Greek legend woven around hyacinth, actually: according to myth, the flower grew from the blood of Hyacinthus, a youth accidentally killed by Apollo and even today, in Greece, the flower stands for remembrance. Bobbi Brown Bobbis Party Diptyque LEau "It's milky and sweet, without being sugary, like vanilla with a hint of caramel. When we smell or taste anything, our receptors constantly wipe those fleeting encounters to prepare for the next flavour or a smell. Amouage Amouage Gold pour Femme Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Alienor adds: 'It's smells like tea, actually.' Sometimes.) Guerlain Aprs lOnde The name neroli comes from a small Italian town near Rome, and a princess who lived there. Yes, it does: its honeyed, musky, softly sweet and intimate, sometimes with hints of pollen. (The actual aroma compound itself is called oxane, FYI.) Water and Santa Maria NovellaGinestra (Broom) Officina Profumo. (Not to be confused, incidentally, with the type of verbena grown in Britain, which has no value in perfumery. These apparently delicate flowers - a.k.a. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt. The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. "It is one of a handful of animal-derived ingredients and comes from sperm whales who excrete the waxy substance when they have been eating cuttlefish," he says. A flowering tree native to China, valued for its delicate fruity apricot aroma. Tom Ford Violet Blonde ClarinsEauRessourcante If youve ever walked in an evergreen forest, cedar will transport you back there, too. Jimmy Choo Jimmy Choo Once cut, theyre turned frequently to prevent them breaking down too quickly. This is, after all, a kind of mandarin: sweet, honeyed and with lots of uplifting zest in its bright orange skin. Dior JAdore DKNY Energising for Women Theres a wide variety of different names for this perfume, including: Patchouli Ethanone Isocyclemone E Ambralux Anthamber Although there are many manufacturing methods, only the IFF product is considered to be Iso E Super. It was for a time the perfumers choice for replacing animal musks, although its gentler and not as sharp. Its no surprise that freesias are favourite flowers, for many of us: these delicate, multi-coloured flowers smell so radiantly sweet and airy, with an almost nose-tingling freshness and a hint of citrus in there somewhere, too. "Crystalline in form and snow-white in color, coumarins presence in fragrances is ubiquitous. Cartier Le Must de Cartier (Time is money, in perfumery.) Creed Impriale Millesime Taylor Swift Wonderstruck. Andy TauerUne Rose Vermeille Evody Note de Luxe (And we just love the way that perfumers rise to challenges like this), PS Oakmoss has a near-relation, known as tree moss - Evernia Furfuracea - which grows on pine trees, has a turpentine-y scent before its blended, and is also very highly-prized among perfumers. CK One Shock for Her But chocolates not a piece of cake for perfumers to work with: in the wrong hands it tips right over into ickiness, but in the right hands it further ups the sensuality of florals and of patchouli. This yes spicy ingredient comes from the dried, unripe berries of the Pimenta dioica (pimento), an evergreen tree that flourishes in the Caribbean, Mexico, and Central America. LOccitane en Provence Peony Miller Harris Terre de Bois. Dior JAdore Este Lauder Sensuous Because of those herby qualities, rosemarys used with only the lightest touch in female perfumes, though more widely in so-called mens scents. Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents. Map of the Heart an Abundance of Creativity. Floris Edwardian Bouquet Les Couvent de Minimes Eau de Mtines In a fragrance? It almost hypnotises. linden, or Tilia cordata) almost seems to drip with honey. Its the leaves which can be distilled: the resulting oil is very high in a chemicall called eugenol. It has more character than sweet orange; it seems naughtier to me. Soft, floaty, feminine: this so-pretty floral note has just a whisper of actual peachy fruitiness about it. 9 Benjoin Francis Kurkdjian APOM Pour Femme Chanel Coco (Headspace technology is usually used to capture the scent: the air around the bloom is analysed, and the aroma compounds flawlessly recreated in the lab.). The key aroma compound in sweet orange oil, meanwhile, is something called d-limonene and its also a sensitiser for some people, meaning it has to be listed (albeit in the teensiest writing) on labels. Its pricy the third-costliest spice in the world (after vanilla and saffron) but so aromatic that only a touch is needed of the essential oil thats steam-distilled from the seeds of the Elletaria cardomomum plant. 'A very powerful molecule, in both masculine and feminine fragrances,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. Floris Tuberose Every evening we had to brush them, polish them. Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue Savvy perfumers know exactly which to use to get their desired effect, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea With its slightly musky, woody, aromatic, earthy, warm and sensual scent, jatamansi also featured in body oils and unguents, in Roman times. Its a-little-bit-musky, a-little-bit-spicy, a-little-bit-powdery qualities become even more versatile in the hands of perfumers: they know how Cashmeran almost melts into many types of ingredients to add an extra, almost tactile sensuality to perfumes within a wide range of fragrance families. (Think: barns) Its not the actual essence-of-dried-pasture used to feed cattle, horses, goats and sheep that youll smell in a perfume bottle, however: hay notes are created synthetically - yet theyre no less glorious for that (Do also read about coumarin, here: its another, quite similar synthetic, which gives us the scent of new-mown grass), Etat Libre dOrange Jasmin et Cigarette Steam-extracted from the leaves of a family of super-fast-growing trees and shrubs native to Australia, New Zealand and Tasmania over 500 different varieties eucalyptus can add an airiness to perfumes, with its green, camphor-y, lemon-ish facets. Its been around for thousands of years: archaeologists found Roman licorice along Hadrians Wall, and it was also uncovered in the pyramids. Thebrightness and sparkling fuzziness of citrus, the damp woody, earthybrown vetiver and the sharpness of pepper fit like Coke, fries andburger. In fragrances, though, it works brilliantly as a fixative, and in chypre and Ambre scents: it complements oakmoss, lavender, vetiver, lemon and spice. Aldehyde C10 decanal powerfully conjures up orange rind. The galbanum plant produces the gum resin asafoetida, used in Indian cooking (as well as perfumery), which you can read about here. Jo Malone London Vetyver Next time youre biting into a date that dried fruit, which conjures up images of oases, palm trees (and just possibly camels) have a sniff, first. Byredo Pulp Probably just as well: the datura flower has been linked to many deaths, and has many powerful and/or downright dangerous side-effects. Cartier Les Heures Voyageuses Oud & Menthe It gets its name from the Italian word amaro (for bitter) - even though the legendary alcoholic drink (lugged back home from many a Duty Free) is actually sweet and almond-y. Say papyrus and you probably think of an ancient form of paper, crafted from this member of the sedge (grass) family as an alternative to using wood (its botanical name is Cyperus papyrus). Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir LArtisan Parfumeur Fleur dOranger It isnt just the fruit thats used: apple blossom gives a soft, floral air to fragrances and lately, theres been a trend to using something called an apple tree note: in fact, a synthetic, fantasy ingredient which delivers a fruity-woodiness. Personally, we prefer to wear our guaiac wood, for an air of mystery. Amazingly, from those fragile-looking leaves comes a sweet, spicy, smoky, cedar-y scent so powerful it has to be handled with care: patchouli is the most powerful of any plant-derived essence. A gum resin that is produced from a bush found in Arabia and Eastern Africa. Nasomatto Absinth. "Heliotrope is an herbaceous plant that produces small flowers with white, purple, or blue shades. The almost bitter green leaf offers us a sense of cool and shade. The first isresinoid, which is perfectwith lavender. (Nobodys quite sure where the fruit originated: maybe the southern Mediterranean, maybe China) Because of their luscious, hint-of-raspberry juiciness, blood oranges have become incredibly popular to eat and now theyre making their way into zesty perfumery, too, with a warm, tangy, citrussy, berry-like quality that adds a real sparkle factor to fragrance creations, complementing other citrus elements (mandarin, neroli, grapefruit), as well as rose and geranium, and spicy notes of clove and cinnamon. The most celebrated use of bourgeons de cassis has been in Guerlains 1969 perfume, Chamade. Goutal Paris Eau du Sud Off-screen, this flowering plant flourishes further afield than the European alps, where its a protected species: edelweiss is nowadays most commonly found in Javanese mountain regions. Its long been considered to have aphrodisiac properties, when eaten though if spicy scents turn you on, maybe when dabbed onto pulse-points, too. But as with many unlikely perfume ingredients, add it in the teensiest dose, and hemlock can add depth and intrigue. In perfumes, lavender is typically used either as a top or a middle note. "Rose is a universal childhood memory, which almost anyone has smelled in a garden and knows; it can also give way to endless reinterpretations," says perfumer Caroline Dumur. Crabtree & Evelyn Lavender Lancme Trsor Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville (Interior decorators, as well as perfumers, also love ginger for the sheer architecture of the plants. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Ambre Brulant Tom Ford Private Blend Mandarino Di Amalfi Most famous as a recreational drug, the fibres of the plant can be woven into tough cloth hemp and every part of the flower is edible: hemp seed oil is highly nutritious, and great for skin, too (internally and externally). Prada Intense Prada But its easy to see (or rather, smell) why white chocolate could add an almost edibly delicious creaminess to a fragrance. Prada Infusion de Fleur dOranger "Orris is utterly timeless, and emerged through every single perfumery period, bringing unique nobility. Byredo Gypsy Water "Created in the 1960s, it brings a strong note of "pure water", salty ocean air and is also reminiscent of watermelon. Oudh (sometimes spelled 'oud') has become a phenomenally popular ingredient, but still divides opinion. A gum resin, tapped from the True Myrrh tree, or Commiphora Myrrha which originates from parts of Arabia, Somalia and Ethiopia; the resins produced by tapping the tree to make small incisions, from which small teardrop-shaped droplets emerge and are left to harden into bead-like nuggets, which are then steam-distilled to produce an essential oil. Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger. (Confusing spellings, too: it can be spelled camomile, chamomile and camomile.) Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. The scented oils obtained by cold-pressing the peel and unlike so many other plant ingredients, the aroma that you get from that process is almost exactly the natural scent of the ripe fruits peel. Used alongside rose, it extends and fixes roses sweetness. Jean-Paul Gaultier Classique Pepper, is metallic and spiky, sharp. Galbanum essential oil is quite different to the gum: intensely green, slightly bitter, earthy. It goes to show: flowers are more than what we see. Known as the carnal flower (Roja Dove also calls it the harlot of perfumery), tuberoses blooms are so powerful that just a few stems can fill a room with their headiness, pumping out their scent for days or even weeks. The odor profile of this multifaceted material includes sweet fresh hay notes along with blond tobacco and soft, creamy nut-like nuances," says perfumer Gwen Gonzalez. Once upon a time, jasmines scent was extracted through a process called enfleurage: the flowers were pressed into layers of fat, and gradually the scent migrated to the fat, from which it could be extracted. ', Narcissus has been exciting perfumers for millennia. Benzaldehyde is a synthetic material found naturally in bitter almond oil, used in small amounts in violet and heliotrope types of perfumes to give a whisper of marzipan. This somehow led to the idea that where rosemary grew outside a house, it symbolised that a woman ruled the household. Here, you can read about literally hundreds of the different perfume elements in use today. What better ingredient for fragrances suitable for brides, then? Thats what youll get when you smell ambrette, an aromatic medicinal plant (musk mallow) which is native to India and used particularly in Ayurvedic medicine. Thats because the orris from the rhizomes, or bulbs of the iris plant are odourless when harvested, and take three or four years to mature. There are two types of civet: one African (its habitat spans Ethiopia through to South Africa), and Indian, native to Nepal, Bangladesh and Vietnam. Guerlain Aprs LOnde Youre most likely to encounter wheat in a gourmand (edible) or Ambre fragrance though sometimes, used sparingly, its used as a modifier: an ingredient added to make something smell truly unique, rather than another me-too scent. A Far Eastern flower, a member of the lilac and olive family: known as Kwei Hwa or Mo Hsi, its been used there to fragrance tea and other drinks, as well as jam. (And conservationists.) Andrea Maack Dark The fragrant liquid which refreshed Roman guests and was flung up by fountains all around town, however, was rosewater - the water in which roses have been steeped, then discarded. Asafoetida comes from the dried taproot of Ferula asafoetida note the word foetid in the name, because it really does honk: strong and sulphurous, its known variously as devils dung, stinking dung, or (charmingly) in French, merde de diable (devils poo). Its extraordinary that a single plant can smell so different, depending on where its grown. And its still a key ingredient in many sensual and iconic Ambre perfumes today, Agent Provocateur Eau Provocateur (The seeds, meanwhile, can also be used in pot pourri.). Olfactive Studio Still Life Because some of the natural chemical compounds found in basil eugenol, linalool and methyleugenol are sensitisers, those now must be listed on perfume ingredients lists as a caution to those who know they react. Its a citrus note, often found as part of a zesty blend in colognes. A modern synthetic note created by Givaudan, who behind-the-scenes create countless fragrances for the perfume world. We rather love the story of Amaretto, which has its roots in the Saronno region of Italy (hence the name Amaretto di Sironno, on the label). Mandarins zestiness is instantly cheering: sweet, fruity, citrussy, with hints of neroli and just what perfumers often look for to lift the overture of a scent. Through our longstanding contacts in the world of perfume perfumers, bottle designers, brand creators, the fashion designers who have their names on some of the worlds bestselling scents we have our finger on the pulse-point of everything thats happening and we are delighted to share it with you here. Lemons and flowers are a perfect marriage, in perfumery. The leaves and twigs give us petitgrain (read more about that here), while the cold-pressed peel of the fruit gives us bigarade (click here for more). For hundreds of years, from Roman times (thats as far back as we know about) this style of perfume blended styrax, calamus and labdanum; in the Middle Ages, oak moss began to be added, to create pastilles for burning. Prada No. Used as a less-expensive alternative to vanilla, although has become popular on its own. Este Lauder Pleasures Its so powerful, though, that only a touch is needed and perfumers must proceed with caution: the scent in a closed room can be overwhelming. Its a key ingredient in Bay Rum aftershave/scent, and often used in mens perfumery but also to spice up a chypre fragrance, or in a mysterious ambre, Several names for this: Curry Plant, Herb of St. John, Immortelle (which you might know from the LOccitane skincare range) - and botanically, Helichrysum augustifolium. Find it mostly in chypre and fougre creations. The 6 Most Expensive Perfume Ingredients in the World. J-Lo Glo Guerlain Idylle (Today, a synthetic coumarin is widely used.) WebLinalool is a super common fragranceingredient. Among these chemicals are numerous known allergens such as Delicious mixed with lots of sugar and baked into pies and tarts; delicious when used to add a fresh, sharp edge to fruity florals and sheer aquatics, in perfumery. Robert Piguet Fracas Davidoff Cool Water 'When you smell it, you can almost feel it smarting on your tongue'. Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Brilliant VI We love the idea that (as fragrance writer Mandy Aftel puts it), black pepper isnt just thought to stimulate the mind, but to warm the indifferent heart, Perfumer Andy Tauer tells us he's still experimenting with it, as an ingredient. Supremely versatile, it blends exquisitely with cloves, lavender, geranium, jasmine, galbanum, frankincense, black pepper, jasmine and patchouli; it works as a fixative, tetheringother ingredients and keeping them true, in a composition. In Greek and Roman times, heroes were garlanded by laurel another name for bay - as a symbol of victory. The plant itself is found in Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, areas of the US like Florida, and Australia. "Thanks to new modern chypre fragrances, oakmoss is having a renaissance moment. The attar of roses which is produced is powerful and expensive and no wonder: it takes around 40,000 rose flowers to produce one 10 g bottle of rose attar. ), Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta But in the hands of a gifted nose? A highly important ingredient in perfumes. Shay & Blue English Cherry Blossom. "Because they are so long-lasting, musk is often the note that lingers on the skin after all the other notes have disappeared.". The name (who knew?) (Doesnt mean it will. "It is super-chic, and I strongly believe in its rebirth after years of outdatedness. Dior Dune Guerlain Samsara Burberry The Beat Not surprisingly, in perfumery its use to hypnotic effect: a powdery, floral note that works beautifully in Ambre compositions. Its mostly used for its good-enough-to-eat sweetness in gourmand scents - but occasionally by perfumers for extra richness in fragrances from other families. It would be nice to think that spritzing on a scent featuring this delicious, little-known ingredient worked the same way. "Muguet is a wildflower growing in the undergrowth, and its scent cant be captured naturally despite its sublime power," says perfumer Domitille Michalon-Bertier. Histoire de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge (Over the centuries, its also been valued as a medicinal and was actually recommended by the famous herbalist John Gerard; elecampane has been prescribed for shortness of breath and water retention.) But its also grown in Algiers, Morocco and in Grasse, we saw Chanel experimenting with growing geranium in their fields. Another note of warning: in its purest commercial form, citral can paralyse the nose for several hours, making it impossible to smell anything at all. "Rose has a unique signature, which immediately brings uniqueness into a fragrance: its presence just cant be faked., A real Rose de Mai is a distillation of a Centifolia rose grown in the Grasse area in France. I love the depth, opulence, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances," says Gonzalez. As tended to happen at bacchanales, he imbibed too much, and became somewhat over-amorous towards a priestess. Miller Harris Jasmin Vert, Koalas love it. Jennifer Lopez Glow Goutal Neroli Instantly cooling and utterly refreshing, mint has been infused for centuries in various preparations to be taken as a herbal remedy for digestive complaints, to soothe inflamed skin and also to splash on as a tonic for the senses. Vera Wang Lovestruck, Zing! A synthetic aldehyde with a spicy, ambery, musky, floral odor, cashmeran is used to invoke the velvety smell or "feel" of cashmere. ), Amazingly, tonka bean is actually a member of the pea family. In Medieval times, lavender was strewn on the floors of churches and homes, used to scent linen and clothing, and also in pot pourri and sachets. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio But with zero calories. Jean Patou 1000 Allegedly, in 1525, a Saronno church commissioned one of Leonardo da Vincis pupils, artist Bernardino Luini, to daub their sanctuary with frescoes. Where she touched the ground, beautiful iris flowers grew out of her footprints. Nowadays, its usually a somewhat less romantic solvent process. Guerlain Myrrhe & Dlires Unlike rose or jasmine, which are more familiar, you may never have smelled a magnolia up close but this family of flowering trees is worth sniffing out, especially the Magnolia grandiflorum variety. Cartier Must de Cartier I love the warm leather tones of this quality of styrax - but itneeds careful handling, though. Its certainly possible to capture the airy sweetness of sweet peas, or Lathyrus odoratus which naturally smell somewhere between orange blossom and hyacinth, with a hint of rose through a process of extraction. NB This visual is of the painting Fume dAmbergris by John Singer Sargent. Ormonde JayneFrangipani. Heaven knows how or why someone had the idea of using the soft, paste-like glandular secretion from underneath the swishy striped tails of civet cats, however, which they use to mark their territory: its extraordinarily powerful and even stomach-turningly obnoxious in its concentrated form. Penhaligons La Violetta Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? When you read the note incense in a fragrance, if often means frankincense. Theres barely a scent out there which doesnt feature a type of jasmine somewhere in its construction but all jasmines arent created equal, and (dare we say it) theres a lot of snobbery about jasmine, with fragrance houses falling over themselves to boast of the priceless quality of their jasmine, There are actually over 200 species of jasmine but two members of the beautiful white-flowered jasmine family are most prized. Also known as storax, both names for benzoin. In perfumery, though, grass delivers a sweet, herbaceous scent maybe not quite like walking past a house where the grass has just been cut, but delivering a gust (or a whisper) of outdoorsy freshness, nonetheless. Amouroud Silk Route The lily of the valley is The Perfume Societys adopted flower: we simply love the French tradition of offering nosegays of this delicate nodding white bloom on 1st May to people you love and admire. Escentric Molecules Molecule No. ), The supposed Greek legend linked with the flower is well-known: Narcissus was a handsome youth who fell in love with his own reflection, on seeing it in a pool. (In aromatherapy, its a wake-up oil.) ", "Musk is an aromatic base note derived from a combination of natural and synthetic sources. For centuries, the essential oil of bergamot has had a close link to perfumery and scent, even used to scent small papier-mch boxes for keeping small precious mementos - like locks of hair and love letters. Today, iris plants happily grow everywhere from Europe to the Middle East, Asia and north Africa. Chanel No. Kiwi fruit themselves grow on woody vines which produce incredibly dull-looking fruit (greenish-brown, fuzzy) but slice them open and the luscious green flesh (with its corona of black, edible seeds) is revealed. Oud essential oil is produced from Aquilaria trees which mostly grow in the rainforests of Southeast Asia. Today, we grow crocus in the garden often the first herald of spring. Floris Limes Diptyque Odeyo Balmain Eau dIvoire Boadicea the Victorious Warrioress Wed love to hear if you can tell them apart. In modern fragrance, lavender is lightly used in feminine scents, although it turns up in plenty of shared colognes and mens fragrances; it works well alongside other aromatic ingredients like pine, sage and rosemary, as well as patchouli, oakmoss, bergamot, neroli and orange blossom. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatal Originating from Mexico, Central America and Columbia, and then hybridised by clever Dutch plant breeders, dozens of species of tuberous dahlia now brighten our summer gardens. Odor with a hint of Cognac in there transport you back there, too: it be. When we smell or taste anything, our receptors constantly wipe those fleeting encounters to prepare the! Couvent de Minimes Eau de Mtines in a fragrance, if often means frankincense John Singer Sargent, we to. 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